The Vet's Scope...
with Dr. Tiffany Mason, DVM
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Issue # 108
Open up and say "Ahhh."
For all of those thinking of getting a puppy or who have been lucky enough to get one, here is the basic lowdown on veterinary-associated matters that you will face in pup’s first year.
Wanna do some shots?
All puppies should be vaccinated against the “core” diseases (as outlined in the American Animal Hospital Association’s 2011 Canine Vaccination Protocol): Parvovirus (gastrointestinal signs – severe vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration and debilitation); Distemper virus (starts as respiratory disease but moves to invade the gastrointestinal tract and can even cause neurological signs); Adenovirus (Type 1 causes hepatitis or liver inflammation and Type 2 causes respiratory symptoms); and Parainfluenza
virus (respiratory signs similar to kennel cough). These viruses are highly contagious, often very resilient in the environment and can be potentially fatal hence the vaccines are considered to be a critical step in the prevention of these diseases in the general dog population. The vaccines are highly efficacious for preventing disease when the proper vaccination protocol is followed. The recommendation is that each puppy is vaccinated at eight weeks of age (often done by breeder before being sent to the new home), 12 weeks and finally at 16 weeks old. We do three vaccines in order to ensure your dog attains high immunity. If the level of maternal antibody (that pup would have gotten from the mother’s milk) is too high, that first vaccine may not be doing anything because the presence of maternal antibodies will not allow the vaccine to work. In addition, each consecutive booster will give your puppy that much more of a stronger immune response if exposed to the live causal agent.
There are two other vaccines that may be beneficial to your puppy, depending on your lifestyle. Bordatella (the bacterial agent that causes kennel cough or infectious tracheobronchitis) is the first one to consider if your dog will be mixing a lot with other dogs – like at dog parks, doggy daycares, puppy training classes, boarding facilities and/or dog walking groups. This vaccine is usually given just twice in a puppy – usually at 12 and 16 weeks of age. Leptospirosis is the other vaccine to consider. This is a bacterium that is becoming more prevalent in Toronto in the past few years. It is shed in urine of wildlife and other dogs. The bacteria can cause no symptoms in some lucky animals that will continue to spread the bacteria in the environment through their urine (asymptomatic shedding). For those who become sick with the bacteria, one may see a high fever, lethargy and often, joint pain. The disease can progress to cause liver and/ or kidney failure (temporary or sometimes irreversible), uveitis (eye inflammation) and even neurological signs. Because the prevalence of wildlife in the city, the possibility of picking up Lepto is there. Dogs that will be off leash, in the bush and more free to roam would be considered at higher risk and these ones should consider the Leptospirosis vaccine. For a puppy, they should have just the two boosters at 12 and 16 weeks, similar to the Kennel Cough vaccine. Please feel free to discuss what vaccines may be right for your pup, depending on your own personal lifestyle.
Two Tickets to Parasites
Now we can move onto intestinal parasites. The most common puppy parasites are roundworms, hookworms, tapeworms, whipworms, giardia and coccidia. A fecal (or poop) sample should be brought into your vet’s office at some point in their early life – usually at the 12 or16 week appointment – to rule out that they are harbouring something in their intestinal tracts. Some parasites can pass through mother’s placenta or milk; others are picked up in their early environment. A pup with parasites may not always be symptomatic but most often you do see soft stool to full blown diarrhea with or without blood and/or mucous. A course of dewormer is often all that is needed to treat these parasites when or if they are found.
The fix is in
Your veterinarian will also discuss with you the surgical procedures of spaying (removal of ovaries and uterus) and neutering (removal of testicles), or “fixing” your pup when they are mature enough. The general guideline is to spay at 6-8 months of age (ideally before a first heat), and neuter any time between 6 months to a year. If you are not planning to become a breeder yourself we recommend having your pet sterilized. In general, spaying and neutering helps in the control of pet overpopulation. The medical benefits of neutering include: reduced risk of prostatic cancer and hyperplasia and eliminating the risk of testicular torsion or cancer. It also can help with some behavioural issues such as marking and wandering. Spaying a female before her first heat reduces her future risk of mammary cancer and hyperplasia and eliminates the chance of any internal reproductive cancer. Please feel free to discuss what works for you and your puppy with your veterinarian.
Pet + Vet = Set
The reality is that part of getting a new pup involves more frequent trips to the vet in its first year. Do as much research on finding a good veterinarian as you do on finding your puppy – you want to find someone who is accessible and whom you trust. Those extra visits to the vet in the first year will help set up a positive relationship with all of the members of your clinic, who will all be a big resource to you as your pet grows up
Dr. Tiffany Mason is a companion animal veterinarian practicing at Queen West Animal Hospital in Toronto. She can be reached at 416-815-8387 or info@queenwestvets.com
Wanna do some shots?
All puppies should be vaccinated against the “core” diseases (as outlined in the American Animal Hospital Association’s 2011 Canine Vaccination Protocol): Parvovirus (gastrointestinal signs – severe vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration and debilitation); Distemper virus (starts as respiratory disease but moves to invade the gastrointestinal tract and can even cause neurological signs); Adenovirus (Type 1 causes hepatitis or liver inflammation and Type 2 causes respiratory symptoms); and Parainfluenza
virus (respiratory signs similar to kennel cough). These viruses are highly contagious, often very resilient in the environment and can be potentially fatal hence the vaccines are considered to be a critical step in the prevention of these diseases in the general dog population. The vaccines are highly efficacious for preventing disease when the proper vaccination protocol is followed. The recommendation is that each puppy is vaccinated at eight weeks of age (often done by breeder before being sent to the new home), 12 weeks and finally at 16 weeks old. We do three vaccines in order to ensure your dog attains high immunity. If the level of maternal antibody (that pup would have gotten from the mother’s milk) is too high, that first vaccine may not be doing anything because the presence of maternal antibodies will not allow the vaccine to work. In addition, each consecutive booster will give your puppy that much more of a stronger immune response if exposed to the live causal agent.
There are two other vaccines that may be beneficial to your puppy, depending on your lifestyle. Bordatella (the bacterial agent that causes kennel cough or infectious tracheobronchitis) is the first one to consider if your dog will be mixing a lot with other dogs – like at dog parks, doggy daycares, puppy training classes, boarding facilities and/or dog walking groups. This vaccine is usually given just twice in a puppy – usually at 12 and 16 weeks of age. Leptospirosis is the other vaccine to consider. This is a bacterium that is becoming more prevalent in Toronto in the past few years. It is shed in urine of wildlife and other dogs. The bacteria can cause no symptoms in some lucky animals that will continue to spread the bacteria in the environment through their urine (asymptomatic shedding). For those who become sick with the bacteria, one may see a high fever, lethargy and often, joint pain. The disease can progress to cause liver and/ or kidney failure (temporary or sometimes irreversible), uveitis (eye inflammation) and even neurological signs. Because the prevalence of wildlife in the city, the possibility of picking up Lepto is there. Dogs that will be off leash, in the bush and more free to roam would be considered at higher risk and these ones should consider the Leptospirosis vaccine. For a puppy, they should have just the two boosters at 12 and 16 weeks, similar to the Kennel Cough vaccine. Please feel free to discuss what vaccines may be right for your pup, depending on your own personal lifestyle.
Two Tickets to Parasites
Now we can move onto intestinal parasites. The most common puppy parasites are roundworms, hookworms, tapeworms, whipworms, giardia and coccidia. A fecal (or poop) sample should be brought into your vet’s office at some point in their early life – usually at the 12 or16 week appointment – to rule out that they are harbouring something in their intestinal tracts. Some parasites can pass through mother’s placenta or milk; others are picked up in their early environment. A pup with parasites may not always be symptomatic but most often you do see soft stool to full blown diarrhea with or without blood and/or mucous. A course of dewormer is often all that is needed to treat these parasites when or if they are found.
The fix is in
Your veterinarian will also discuss with you the surgical procedures of spaying (removal of ovaries and uterus) and neutering (removal of testicles), or “fixing” your pup when they are mature enough. The general guideline is to spay at 6-8 months of age (ideally before a first heat), and neuter any time between 6 months to a year. If you are not planning to become a breeder yourself we recommend having your pet sterilized. In general, spaying and neutering helps in the control of pet overpopulation. The medical benefits of neutering include: reduced risk of prostatic cancer and hyperplasia and eliminating the risk of testicular torsion or cancer. It also can help with some behavioural issues such as marking and wandering. Spaying a female before her first heat reduces her future risk of mammary cancer and hyperplasia and eliminates the chance of any internal reproductive cancer. Please feel free to discuss what works for you and your puppy with your veterinarian.
Pet + Vet = Set
The reality is that part of getting a new pup involves more frequent trips to the vet in its first year. Do as much research on finding a good veterinarian as you do on finding your puppy – you want to find someone who is accessible and whom you trust. Those extra visits to the vet in the first year will help set up a positive relationship with all of the members of your clinic, who will all be a big resource to you as your pet grows up
Dr. Tiffany Mason is a companion animal veterinarian practicing at Queen West Animal Hospital in Toronto. She can be reached at 416-815-8387 or info@queenwestvets.com
Dr. Mason's Holiday Health Guide
Holiday season – and the onset of severe weather conditions -- will soon be upon us, so this is a perfect opportunity to review some common health hazards out there for our canine friends.
Hypofur-mia: Please don’t freeze the puppies!
· If you plan to head out to do errands and leave the dog in the car, be sure to check out the temperature before you go. Even though they have natural coats, they can get too cold if left in a car for too long in frigid weather. They can’t do much to warm themselves up in such a confined environment, so their body temperature will continue to drop the longer they sit there, putting them at risk for developing hypothermia. Think of it this way: if it’s too cold for you to sit in a car without the heat on, then it’s too cold for them. Be safe and leave the pooch at home.
This is what I’m toxin about
There are many toxins that are common causes of emergency trips to the vet during the holidays and throughout the winter season.
· Chocolate is probably the number one culprit, as many people are not aware that it can be toxic to pets, or that dogs would even eat it. Pure dark or cooking chocolates are the worst kinds (i.e. most lethal) but any type should be put well away from the mouth of your dog.
· Some types of mistletoe are toxic to pets and can cause anything from stomach upset to liver failure and seizures.
· Amaryllis bulbs may be popular house warming gifts but they are in fact toxic to pets. Poinsettias are in fact not toxic although ingestion may cause stomach irritation and upset.
· Finally, antifreeze should be mentioned here as it is extremely toxic to pets yet has a sweet taste that may pique their interest in it. Always store this in a dog-proof place and be sure to rinse away any spilled antifreeze.
Fido’s taboo foods
Beware of exposing your dog to new foods, particularly those that are fatty, rich and/or spicy. Depending on your dog’s gastrointestinal (GI) sensitivity, some food items can cause GI upset that can range from mild (but diarrhea all over the house may not exactly be what you had in mind for the holidays!) to more serious health issues such as pancreatitis, which can be a medical emergency. This is best avoided by skipping anything fatty and rich (turkey skin and very fatty bits of meat). Of course treats are in order for everyone for the holidays, so small portions of lean meats and veggies are probably going to be OK and will make your friend very happy for the treat…and for avoiding the hospital.
Avoid giving Fido any type of bones. On the one hand they can be too rich for your dog’s GI tract and trigger issues as discussed above OR they can become a potential foreign body that often requires surgery. Poultry bones are particularly lethal in that they splinter easily and can puncture the gut, causing a lot of destruction (peritonitis in the worst case scenario) if ingested. Bigger and harder bones such as beef or ham hocks can break teeth and should also be avoided.
Monitor mischievous munching
· Christmas tree ornaments and lights are all potential hazards. The sparkle of tinsel can be quite enticing to a dog (or perhaps more specifically a cat) but it can cause severe bunching up of the intestines if eaten. This is a decoration to avoid or string up high.
· Chewing on electrical cords (hello, puppies!) can cause electrocution, severe burns to the mouth and, depending on severity, can result in the accumulation of fluid in the lungs, which is a medical emergency. It may be best to keep pets – especially chewers – away from the lit tree when unsupervised or be sure the power supply is off when no one is around to monitor it.
· Glass and breakable ornaments should also be put up high and safe from the mouth of a curious canine for obvious reasons. You don’t want to be surprised by something that you didn’t think your dog would want to chew on so be wise about supervising exposure to the tree or keeping more hazardous items up high.
As much as we’d like to believe we know our dog’s habits, we can’t always predict what they may want to get into, or how sick it could make them. Be safe during the holidays and supervise the family pets around food and decorations, or keep them in a safe place somewhere else in the house. Be sure to advise all guests about potential pet hazards as well so that everyone is on the lookout for a problem-free party! Festivities can be stressful for your pet, so try to keep their routine as normal as possible – they will thank you for it!
I’m hoping everyone has a safe and happy holiday and that all of you who read this can avoid any trip to an emergency clinic!
Caring for your aging friend
Nothing says “old friend” better than the loving and trusting gaze from the gray-haired face of your aging dog.
It’s a bittersweet time, as you know that they cannot live forever, but they have given you years of wonderful memories and friendship.
The best thing we can do for our older guys is to be sure they age gracefully and painlessly and your observations about their mobility, appetite, energy levels and overall health are key to being able to provide that.
The most common ailments or concerns I see among older dogs are endocrine (hormonal) diseases, sensory losses, mobility decline and cognitive dysfunction. Some of these things we can help control, and others we cannot – the idea is to make the best of what you’ve got and address any of your concerns with your veterinarian sooner versus later. Since dogs often take their cues from their caregivers, an optimistic an encouraging attitude from you will positively impact your dog’s health, whether or not there are underlying health concerns. This is the greatest way to make the best of your dog’s autumn years.
The most common hormonal disease I see in older dogs is Hypothyroidism – a disease caused by low thyroid hormone. This presents most commonly as low energy and inexplicable weight gain, and can trigger such complications as recurrent skin and/or ear infections. A simple blood test reveals a dogs’ hormone level and the condition is treated with a daily thyroid supplement. Other common endocrine disorders seen in aging dogs include Diabetes Mellitus and Cushing’s disease (hyperadrenocorticism). The classic symptoms associated with both of these disorders are an excessive amount of drinking coupled with an increase in the volume and frequency of urinating, even to the point of seeing urinary accidents in the house. Again, bloodwork can be performed to make the diagnosis and they are both treatable diseases when detected early enough.
Many pet owners describe sensory deficits as their pet ages – usually in the form of vision or hearing loss. Often you can see the grayish haze take over the pupil of the eye. This is most commonly a normal process of aging called lenticular sclerosis and, although it can diminish your dog’s vision, is not a serious condition. What can be of more concern is the development of cataracts in the lens. Your veterinarian will easily be able to help you differentiate between the two so check it out with them if you are worried. Night lights can often help with night vision and be sure to protect your pet from stairs and other hazards with baby gates or other barriers if vision is severely compromised. Don’t rearrange furniture if there are vision concerns. Hearing loss is also common with advancing age but again, it is not preventable, nor serious to their overall health.
Many older dogs develop arthritis or other mobility issues such as mild muscle wasting/loss of strength or some “stiffness” to their gait. Their overall stamina may be reduced as well. In general, as your dog ages, decrease the intensity and length of outings and replace rigorous activity with more frequent, yet gentle walks. You want to help your pet keep up their muscle strength without putting undue stress on any arthritic joints. Soft, cushioned beds will also go a long way in pampering your older friend. Your veterinarian can help you determine if there is arthritis there or not and help identify which joints may be involved.
From here you can decide on ways to ensure your dog is living pain free. Options vary from techniques such as laser light therapy (very commonly used in the human world of sports medicine) or acupuncture to arranging physiotherapy to retain muscle strength and joint range of motion. Supplements such as Omega-3 fatty acids, glucosamine, chondroitin, green-lipped mussels, etc. are also available and can be of great help in slowing down the process of joint degeneration and keeping your dog comfortable without having to use drugs. However, if medication is the only means of ensuring your dog is pain-free, there are various classes available for use that can really make a difference in your dog’s quality of life. The best medication is based on your dog’s needs and their overall health and your veterinarian will help decide what is best for your pet.
The final chief concern I hear about canine sunset years regards behavioural changes. Some older animals, particularly those with sensory losses or those who had anxiety issues their whole lives, become more anxious with age. Going back to basics with respect to training your dog can be a good first step. The idea here, is to teach your dog a “sit and stay” or other neutral behaviour that can distract them in periods of higher anxiety. In addition, some people describe other behavioural changes such as barking, excessive clinginess and pacing. Your veterinarian can help rule out more serious underlying causes for such behavioural changes but many times it comes down to simple cognitive dysfunction related to age. There are some helpful homeopathic items on the market that some dogs respond to but others require behaviour-modifying drugs in order to give them peace. Again talk to your veterinarian about what’s available to see what is right for your dog.
The best way to prevent major problems associated with age is to identify things early so be sure to keep up with annual, or even semi-annual senior exams with your veterinarian. In the end, all we want is for our older friends to be content and comfortable in their final years. With the wide variety of resources available today, there is no reason an older dog should ever have less than a stellar quality of life to their very last day.
It’s a bittersweet time, as you know that they cannot live forever, but they have given you years of wonderful memories and friendship.
The best thing we can do for our older guys is to be sure they age gracefully and painlessly and your observations about their mobility, appetite, energy levels and overall health are key to being able to provide that.
The most common ailments or concerns I see among older dogs are endocrine (hormonal) diseases, sensory losses, mobility decline and cognitive dysfunction. Some of these things we can help control, and others we cannot – the idea is to make the best of what you’ve got and address any of your concerns with your veterinarian sooner versus later. Since dogs often take their cues from their caregivers, an optimistic an encouraging attitude from you will positively impact your dog’s health, whether or not there are underlying health concerns. This is the greatest way to make the best of your dog’s autumn years.
The most common hormonal disease I see in older dogs is Hypothyroidism – a disease caused by low thyroid hormone. This presents most commonly as low energy and inexplicable weight gain, and can trigger such complications as recurrent skin and/or ear infections. A simple blood test reveals a dogs’ hormone level and the condition is treated with a daily thyroid supplement. Other common endocrine disorders seen in aging dogs include Diabetes Mellitus and Cushing’s disease (hyperadrenocorticism). The classic symptoms associated with both of these disorders are an excessive amount of drinking coupled with an increase in the volume and frequency of urinating, even to the point of seeing urinary accidents in the house. Again, bloodwork can be performed to make the diagnosis and they are both treatable diseases when detected early enough.
Many pet owners describe sensory deficits as their pet ages – usually in the form of vision or hearing loss. Often you can see the grayish haze take over the pupil of the eye. This is most commonly a normal process of aging called lenticular sclerosis and, although it can diminish your dog’s vision, is not a serious condition. What can be of more concern is the development of cataracts in the lens. Your veterinarian will easily be able to help you differentiate between the two so check it out with them if you are worried. Night lights can often help with night vision and be sure to protect your pet from stairs and other hazards with baby gates or other barriers if vision is severely compromised. Don’t rearrange furniture if there are vision concerns. Hearing loss is also common with advancing age but again, it is not preventable, nor serious to their overall health.
Many older dogs develop arthritis or other mobility issues such as mild muscle wasting/loss of strength or some “stiffness” to their gait. Their overall stamina may be reduced as well. In general, as your dog ages, decrease the intensity and length of outings and replace rigorous activity with more frequent, yet gentle walks. You want to help your pet keep up their muscle strength without putting undue stress on any arthritic joints. Soft, cushioned beds will also go a long way in pampering your older friend. Your veterinarian can help you determine if there is arthritis there or not and help identify which joints may be involved.
From here you can decide on ways to ensure your dog is living pain free. Options vary from techniques such as laser light therapy (very commonly used in the human world of sports medicine) or acupuncture to arranging physiotherapy to retain muscle strength and joint range of motion. Supplements such as Omega-3 fatty acids, glucosamine, chondroitin, green-lipped mussels, etc. are also available and can be of great help in slowing down the process of joint degeneration and keeping your dog comfortable without having to use drugs. However, if medication is the only means of ensuring your dog is pain-free, there are various classes available for use that can really make a difference in your dog’s quality of life. The best medication is based on your dog’s needs and their overall health and your veterinarian will help decide what is best for your pet.
The final chief concern I hear about canine sunset years regards behavioural changes. Some older animals, particularly those with sensory losses or those who had anxiety issues their whole lives, become more anxious with age. Going back to basics with respect to training your dog can be a good first step. The idea here, is to teach your dog a “sit and stay” or other neutral behaviour that can distract them in periods of higher anxiety. In addition, some people describe other behavioural changes such as barking, excessive clinginess and pacing. Your veterinarian can help rule out more serious underlying causes for such behavioural changes but many times it comes down to simple cognitive dysfunction related to age. There are some helpful homeopathic items on the market that some dogs respond to but others require behaviour-modifying drugs in order to give them peace. Again talk to your veterinarian about what’s available to see what is right for your dog.
The best way to prevent major problems associated with age is to identify things early so be sure to keep up with annual, or even semi-annual senior exams with your veterinarian. In the end, all we want is for our older friends to be content and comfortable in their final years. With the wide variety of resources available today, there is no reason an older dog should ever have less than a stellar quality of life to their very last day.
The Vet's Scope: Well, itch Lyme time!
By Dr. Tiffany Mason, DVM
For this issue’s Vet Scope I thought I’d focus on Lyme disease, an emerging illness that can affect both pets and humans. Lyme disease is caused by the bacteria Borrelia burgdorferi. In Ontario, these bacteria are transmitted by the bite from blacklegged ticks (Ixodes scapularis), also known as deer ticks. The causal bacterium is treatable with common and inexpensive antibiotics.
Lyme disease was previously rare in Southern Ontario but the incidence of disease is on the rise, particularly in the spring and fall when ticks tend to reproduce. Known Lyme-carrying tick “hotspots” in Ontario were primarily found along the shores of Lake Erie, Lake Ontario, and the St. Lawrence River and included: Long Point, Turkey Point, Point Pelee, Prince Edward County and the St. Lawrence Islands. However, Lyme disease is now being detected beyond these rural areas. The theory behind the spread of Lyme disease is that migratory birds carry both the Borrelia bacteria in their blood, and Ixodes ticks on their bodies. Their changing movement patterns mean that ticks and Lyme bacteria can pretty much be transported throughout the whole province, including downtown Toronto, putting our urban dogs at more risk. This is supported by local laboratory data that has shown an increase in the diagnosis of Lyme disease in dogs in and around the GTA over the past 5 years.
Tick talk, tick talk
However, because (1) ticks are most likely to transmit infection after being attached to a host’s body for more than 24 hours and (2) the majority of ticks do NOT carry the Borrelia bacteria, early detection and removal of ticks is one of the key methods of preventing Lyme disease. People should get in the habit of doing “tick checks” on their dogs, especially if you’ve spent the day in long grasses (ticks love this type of environment) or other known tick-populated areas. Carefully use your fingertips and your eyes to go over your dog’s whole body (nose to tail) looking for ticks. If you’re not sure what you’re looking for, check out some deer tick pictures online. I find people often mistake ticks as skin tags! If you do happen to find a tick, use fine-tipped tweezers to carefully grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible and pull straight out from the body using gentle but firm pressure. Do NOT squeeze the tick and do NOT try to burn the tick off of your dog (yes, I saw this advice online)! Clean the bite area with soap and water or alcohol after the tick is detached.
Tick check list
A removed tick can be taken to your veterinarian’s office where options for the next step can be discussed. These options may include sending the tick itself to a veterinary lab for a DNA test for the Borellia bacteria to see if it was even a carrier of disease. Alternatively, you could elect to wait a few weeks (this waiting time is required for optimal test results) and then directly test your dog’s blood for the bacteria to see whether or not he or she was truly exposed.
Even if you find a tick on your dog – don’t panic! The majority of dogs who do get infected with the bacteria will never actually get sick. In those that do, symptoms will take weeks to months after exposure to appear. The most typical symptoms of Lyme disease in dogs include sudden onset of swollen joints, joint pain and often a shifting-leg lameness (i.e. limping on one leg one day, a different leg a few days later). Other common symptoms may include enlarged lymph nodes, lethargy, loss of appetite, depression and fever. Rarely, Lyme disease can cause serious heart or neurological problems. The most serious long-term effect of Lyme disease is known as glomerular disease. This is a type of irreversible kidney damage that occurs after prolonged stimulation of the immune system. This is why early detection and treatment is critical.
Lyme disease prevention starts with the simple act of performing regular tick-checks. If you know you are going to be in Lyme endemic areas, you may want to talk to your veterinarian about designing a more aggressive prevention protocol specific for your needs and lifestyle. They will know about the newer veterinary products on the market that are specific tick pesticides for safe use in dogs. They may also suggest actually vaccinating your dog against Lyme disease.
Being aware of prevention and early detection are the keys to avoiding Lyme disease in yourself and your dog. Determining your risk of exposure will guide how far you need to go with respect to prevention. On the basic level, a nightly “tick check” can be easily brought into one’s routine but for those at greater risk, Lyme vaccination and/or the use of tick-specific pesticides may be required. Please talk to your veterinarian to help make the right decision for you and your dogs. Have a safe and happy summer.
Lyme disease was previously rare in Southern Ontario but the incidence of disease is on the rise, particularly in the spring and fall when ticks tend to reproduce. Known Lyme-carrying tick “hotspots” in Ontario were primarily found along the shores of Lake Erie, Lake Ontario, and the St. Lawrence River and included: Long Point, Turkey Point, Point Pelee, Prince Edward County and the St. Lawrence Islands. However, Lyme disease is now being detected beyond these rural areas. The theory behind the spread of Lyme disease is that migratory birds carry both the Borrelia bacteria in their blood, and Ixodes ticks on their bodies. Their changing movement patterns mean that ticks and Lyme bacteria can pretty much be transported throughout the whole province, including downtown Toronto, putting our urban dogs at more risk. This is supported by local laboratory data that has shown an increase in the diagnosis of Lyme disease in dogs in and around the GTA over the past 5 years.
Tick talk, tick talk
However, because (1) ticks are most likely to transmit infection after being attached to a host’s body for more than 24 hours and (2) the majority of ticks do NOT carry the Borrelia bacteria, early detection and removal of ticks is one of the key methods of preventing Lyme disease. People should get in the habit of doing “tick checks” on their dogs, especially if you’ve spent the day in long grasses (ticks love this type of environment) or other known tick-populated areas. Carefully use your fingertips and your eyes to go over your dog’s whole body (nose to tail) looking for ticks. If you’re not sure what you’re looking for, check out some deer tick pictures online. I find people often mistake ticks as skin tags! If you do happen to find a tick, use fine-tipped tweezers to carefully grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible and pull straight out from the body using gentle but firm pressure. Do NOT squeeze the tick and do NOT try to burn the tick off of your dog (yes, I saw this advice online)! Clean the bite area with soap and water or alcohol after the tick is detached.
Tick check list
A removed tick can be taken to your veterinarian’s office where options for the next step can be discussed. These options may include sending the tick itself to a veterinary lab for a DNA test for the Borellia bacteria to see if it was even a carrier of disease. Alternatively, you could elect to wait a few weeks (this waiting time is required for optimal test results) and then directly test your dog’s blood for the bacteria to see whether or not he or she was truly exposed.
Even if you find a tick on your dog – don’t panic! The majority of dogs who do get infected with the bacteria will never actually get sick. In those that do, symptoms will take weeks to months after exposure to appear. The most typical symptoms of Lyme disease in dogs include sudden onset of swollen joints, joint pain and often a shifting-leg lameness (i.e. limping on one leg one day, a different leg a few days later). Other common symptoms may include enlarged lymph nodes, lethargy, loss of appetite, depression and fever. Rarely, Lyme disease can cause serious heart or neurological problems. The most serious long-term effect of Lyme disease is known as glomerular disease. This is a type of irreversible kidney damage that occurs after prolonged stimulation of the immune system. This is why early detection and treatment is critical.
Lyme disease prevention starts with the simple act of performing regular tick-checks. If you know you are going to be in Lyme endemic areas, you may want to talk to your veterinarian about designing a more aggressive prevention protocol specific for your needs and lifestyle. They will know about the newer veterinary products on the market that are specific tick pesticides for safe use in dogs. They may also suggest actually vaccinating your dog against Lyme disease.
Being aware of prevention and early detection are the keys to avoiding Lyme disease in yourself and your dog. Determining your risk of exposure will guide how far you need to go with respect to prevention. On the basic level, a nightly “tick check” can be easily brought into one’s routine but for those at greater risk, Lyme vaccination and/or the use of tick-specific pesticides may be required. Please talk to your veterinarian to help make the right decision for you and your dogs. Have a safe and happy summer.
The Vet's Scope: The Allergic Dog Blues
Above: Bowie's first summer
By Dr. Alison Norwich, DVM
Between camping, barbeques, and swimming pools,
dogs have lots to look forward to as the summer approaches. Just like their human counterparts, dogs relish the extra time spent outdoors — whether it's in the park or on a nearby patio. But if your dog is anything like my dog, summertime also means pollen, heat, and an all-over horrible itchiness that doesn’t seem to quit until the first frost rolls around.
If you have an allergic dog at home, you already know what I'm talking about. Because you've seen it, and heard it, and been kept awake by it night after night. Dogs that suffer from seasonal allergies can become extremely uncomfortable, and relief isn’t always easy to find.
As a veterinarian, my allergic patients keep me busy at work all summer long. As the proud owner of my own allergic dog, things can get even busier at home. My dog Bowie started scratching four years ago this summer. And while each year brings a new set of challenges, understanding Bowie's allergies has made them a whole lot easier to manage. There are a multitude of tools and treatments out there, and given the right combination, it really is possible to help even the itchiest of pets.
Why is my dog so itchy?
Not all itchy dogs have allergies. There are a number of reasons for your dog to scratch, and some of them are easier to treat than others. Fleas, for example, are the most common cause, especially in the summer. There are also other parasites, bacteria, and yeast that can irritate and infect the skin. So it’s important to have your dog examined by a veterinarian to help rule out any of these conditions.
After excluding parasitic and infectious causes, a diagnosis of allergic skin disease is based primarily on history. In other words, your veterinarian will want to know all the details about when your dog started to itch and where he itches the most. This will help to determine whether your dog is suffering from food allergies, environmental allergies, or both.
Dogs with food allergy tend to have problems year-round, and will scratch at their ears, feet, and rears. They may also suffer from recurrent ear infections. On the other hand, dogs with environmental allergy (also known as 'atopy'), will usually start by showing a seasonal pattern of itchiness, which can affect their feet, face, ears, armpits, and groin. Some dogs have a combination of both, and it's never a bad idea to try a hypoallergenic diet in an itchy pet.
The thing about summer time that drives these dogs so crazy is the pollen. Warm weather means an influx of grass and tree pollens and this is when many hypersensitive individuals will start to scratch...
How do I make it stop?
This is the big question really, because nobody wants to watch their pet suffer. For mild itchiness, some dogs will respond well to antihistamines (like Benadryl or Reactine). Like people, different dogs respond better to different drugs, so it might take a couple tries to find the right fit. But before buying out your local drug store, it’s extremely important to contact your veterinarian to discuss which drugs are pet-safe and to determine an appropriate dose.
For intense flare-ups, steroids are definitely my go-to drug. When things get really bad, steroids can provide the immediate relief your dog needs. These are available by prescription only, and for good reason. While they work tremendously to calm the skin, they can have a multitude of side-effects and aren’t safe for all pets.
Once we put out the fire, and everyone gets a good night's sleep, it's time to address the underlying problem. In general, steroids should only be used as a short-term solution, and the goal is to prevent clinical signs before they get out of hand. Ideally, we would avoid the allergens all together. This may mean not going to heavily wooded areas or letting your dog roll in the grass as much as he'd like. Avoidance can definitely help, but the reality is that allergens are just about everywhere.
Ultimately then, we need to address the underlying hypersensitivity that makes allergic dogs react. There are two main ways we can do this. The first is through allergen specific immunotherapy, which is not unlike the allergy shots you might get from your own doctor. The other option is to use a medication called cyclosporine. Both are considered to be safe, and effective in controlling over 70% or allergic patients. There are pros and cons to each, but your veterinarian can help you to decide the best option for your dog.
Finally, for dogs with allergic skin disease, we can't forget to treat the skin! Shampoos, fatty acid supplements, and spot-on treatments containing ceramides can all help to maintain a healthy skin barrier and to prevent secondary infections and inflammation. Remember to always bathe your allergic dogs in cool water to keep their skin from drying out.
As for Bowie, a combination of cyclosporine, twice weekly baths, and as-needed antihistamines managed to keep his allergies completely at bay for the first time this past summer. And though it took a great deal of work, trials, and patience to get him to this point, it was well worth it to see his shiny healthy coat in the middle of August.
It isn't easy. But it is possible. So talk to your veterinarian, treat your dog's itch, and enjoy your summer—together.
Alison is a veterinarian living and working in Toronto. You can reach her at both Davisville Park Animal Hospital and Leslieville Animal Hospital. www.davisvilleparkvets.com www.leslievillevets.com
Between camping, barbeques, and swimming pools,
dogs have lots to look forward to as the summer approaches. Just like their human counterparts, dogs relish the extra time spent outdoors — whether it's in the park or on a nearby patio. But if your dog is anything like my dog, summertime also means pollen, heat, and an all-over horrible itchiness that doesn’t seem to quit until the first frost rolls around.
If you have an allergic dog at home, you already know what I'm talking about. Because you've seen it, and heard it, and been kept awake by it night after night. Dogs that suffer from seasonal allergies can become extremely uncomfortable, and relief isn’t always easy to find.
As a veterinarian, my allergic patients keep me busy at work all summer long. As the proud owner of my own allergic dog, things can get even busier at home. My dog Bowie started scratching four years ago this summer. And while each year brings a new set of challenges, understanding Bowie's allergies has made them a whole lot easier to manage. There are a multitude of tools and treatments out there, and given the right combination, it really is possible to help even the itchiest of pets.
Why is my dog so itchy?
Not all itchy dogs have allergies. There are a number of reasons for your dog to scratch, and some of them are easier to treat than others. Fleas, for example, are the most common cause, especially in the summer. There are also other parasites, bacteria, and yeast that can irritate and infect the skin. So it’s important to have your dog examined by a veterinarian to help rule out any of these conditions.
After excluding parasitic and infectious causes, a diagnosis of allergic skin disease is based primarily on history. In other words, your veterinarian will want to know all the details about when your dog started to itch and where he itches the most. This will help to determine whether your dog is suffering from food allergies, environmental allergies, or both.
Dogs with food allergy tend to have problems year-round, and will scratch at their ears, feet, and rears. They may also suffer from recurrent ear infections. On the other hand, dogs with environmental allergy (also known as 'atopy'), will usually start by showing a seasonal pattern of itchiness, which can affect their feet, face, ears, armpits, and groin. Some dogs have a combination of both, and it's never a bad idea to try a hypoallergenic diet in an itchy pet.
The thing about summer time that drives these dogs so crazy is the pollen. Warm weather means an influx of grass and tree pollens and this is when many hypersensitive individuals will start to scratch...
How do I make it stop?
This is the big question really, because nobody wants to watch their pet suffer. For mild itchiness, some dogs will respond well to antihistamines (like Benadryl or Reactine). Like people, different dogs respond better to different drugs, so it might take a couple tries to find the right fit. But before buying out your local drug store, it’s extremely important to contact your veterinarian to discuss which drugs are pet-safe and to determine an appropriate dose.
For intense flare-ups, steroids are definitely my go-to drug. When things get really bad, steroids can provide the immediate relief your dog needs. These are available by prescription only, and for good reason. While they work tremendously to calm the skin, they can have a multitude of side-effects and aren’t safe for all pets.
Once we put out the fire, and everyone gets a good night's sleep, it's time to address the underlying problem. In general, steroids should only be used as a short-term solution, and the goal is to prevent clinical signs before they get out of hand. Ideally, we would avoid the allergens all together. This may mean not going to heavily wooded areas or letting your dog roll in the grass as much as he'd like. Avoidance can definitely help, but the reality is that allergens are just about everywhere.
Ultimately then, we need to address the underlying hypersensitivity that makes allergic dogs react. There are two main ways we can do this. The first is through allergen specific immunotherapy, which is not unlike the allergy shots you might get from your own doctor. The other option is to use a medication called cyclosporine. Both are considered to be safe, and effective in controlling over 70% or allergic patients. There are pros and cons to each, but your veterinarian can help you to decide the best option for your dog.
Finally, for dogs with allergic skin disease, we can't forget to treat the skin! Shampoos, fatty acid supplements, and spot-on treatments containing ceramides can all help to maintain a healthy skin barrier and to prevent secondary infections and inflammation. Remember to always bathe your allergic dogs in cool water to keep their skin from drying out.
As for Bowie, a combination of cyclosporine, twice weekly baths, and as-needed antihistamines managed to keep his allergies completely at bay for the first time this past summer. And though it took a great deal of work, trials, and patience to get him to this point, it was well worth it to see his shiny healthy coat in the middle of August.
It isn't easy. But it is possible. So talk to your veterinarian, treat your dog's itch, and enjoy your summer—together.
Alison is a veterinarian living and working in Toronto. You can reach her at both Davisville Park Animal Hospital and Leslieville Animal Hospital. www.davisvilleparkvets.com www.leslievillevets.com
THE VET'S SCOPE
Feeding Your Puppy
By Dr. Alsion Norwich, DVM
Apr/May 2012, Issue #102
Puppies make it look easy. Eat, poop, play. Eat, poop, sleep. Eat, poop, repeat. Notice a common theme here? Eating is a huge part of your puppy’s life, and for good reason. What, when, and how much puppies eat can have a major impact on their energy, growth, and long-term development. And while eating anything and everything may come naturally to your pup, ensuring proper nutrition for your pet is sometimes more complicated than it seems.
Probably the most difficult choice pet owners face is selecting what type of food they will offer their puppy. There are many factors to consider, but by far the most important is choosing one that is specifically designed for puppies. Puppies have different energy and nutrient requirements than adult dogs do, particularly when it comes to protein and calcium levels. This becomes especially crucial if you have a large or giant breed puppy at home; there are special diets available for large breed pups which will help their bones and joints to develop normally.
While this will narrow down your list significantly, there will still be hundreds of pet foods out there to choose from, and even more opinions about which is best. Some terms you might hear thrown around are ‘grain-free’ and ‘raw’ diets. You’ll also find diets that that claim to be good for teeth, skin, joints, brain development…the list goes on. Many of these claims have solid research behind them. Others are just the latest fad, and may actually be harmful to your pet. The best thing you can do is to educate yourself. Ask questions, and discuss these subjects with a veterinarian that you trust.
Once you’ve selected the right food for your puppy, you’ll have to decide when you’re going to feed him, and how much. At a minimum, puppies should be fed twice a day. Meal feeding (measured amounts of food at certain times of day) is preferable to free choice because it helps to prevent obesity, and allows you to better monitor any changes in your pup’s appetite.
To figure out how much to feed at each meal, a good place to start is the package guidelines. A high-quality puppy food should provide these guidelines based on age and weight. Of course, no two puppies are the same, so be prepared to make adjustments based on your pet’s growth. The best way to monitor this is by popping in to your veterinary clinic for frequent weigh-ins (at least every few weeks). At the same time, your veterinarian can assess your puppy’s body condition and let you know if you’re on the right track.
Puppy food should be continued until your dog has reached about 80% of adult size. For most breeds this is around 12 months of age, but for giant breeds this may be more like 18 or 24 months. Again, consulting with your veterinarian can help you to determine what’s most appropriate for your pet. When the time comes to switch to adult food, make sure to do so gradually (over 7-10 days) to avoid upset stomachs during the transition.
Sounds simple right? Well, maybe not—but you can do it! Developing a nutritional plan for your puppy doesn’t have to be stressful. Just remember the basics, and consult your vet about the details. Your puppy will thank you. Then eat. Then poop.
Probably the most difficult choice pet owners face is selecting what type of food they will offer their puppy. There are many factors to consider, but by far the most important is choosing one that is specifically designed for puppies. Puppies have different energy and nutrient requirements than adult dogs do, particularly when it comes to protein and calcium levels. This becomes especially crucial if you have a large or giant breed puppy at home; there are special diets available for large breed pups which will help their bones and joints to develop normally.
While this will narrow down your list significantly, there will still be hundreds of pet foods out there to choose from, and even more opinions about which is best. Some terms you might hear thrown around are ‘grain-free’ and ‘raw’ diets. You’ll also find diets that that claim to be good for teeth, skin, joints, brain development…the list goes on. Many of these claims have solid research behind them. Others are just the latest fad, and may actually be harmful to your pet. The best thing you can do is to educate yourself. Ask questions, and discuss these subjects with a veterinarian that you trust.
Once you’ve selected the right food for your puppy, you’ll have to decide when you’re going to feed him, and how much. At a minimum, puppies should be fed twice a day. Meal feeding (measured amounts of food at certain times of day) is preferable to free choice because it helps to prevent obesity, and allows you to better monitor any changes in your pup’s appetite.
To figure out how much to feed at each meal, a good place to start is the package guidelines. A high-quality puppy food should provide these guidelines based on age and weight. Of course, no two puppies are the same, so be prepared to make adjustments based on your pet’s growth. The best way to monitor this is by popping in to your veterinary clinic for frequent weigh-ins (at least every few weeks). At the same time, your veterinarian can assess your puppy’s body condition and let you know if you’re on the right track.
Puppy food should be continued until your dog has reached about 80% of adult size. For most breeds this is around 12 months of age, but for giant breeds this may be more like 18 or 24 months. Again, consulting with your veterinarian can help you to determine what’s most appropriate for your pet. When the time comes to switch to adult food, make sure to do so gradually (over 7-10 days) to avoid upset stomachs during the transition.
Sounds simple right? Well, maybe not—but you can do it! Developing a nutritional plan for your puppy doesn’t have to be stressful. Just remember the basics, and consult your vet about the details. Your puppy will thank you. Then eat. Then poop.
The Vet's Scope
by Dr. Tiffany Mason, DVM
Having a new puppy in the house is a fun and wonderful time for families, but it can also be stressful when faced with sudden injuries or illnesses. If you're not a veterinarian yourself, it's sometimes hard to tell a mild health problem from an emergency. This is especially true if you are a first-time puppy caregiver. When in doubt, a phone call to your veterinarian can relieve a lot of worry if something just doesn’t seem right to you about your puppy’s wellbeing. That is what they are there for….to help guide you through the process of taking care of your pup’s health at home.
Here are some things that can guide you on what warrants a trip to see your pet’s doctor.
Perky puppy’s pet-iculars
Let’s start with the basic signs of a healthy pup. In general you should see:
- Clean ears that are free of debris, redness or odour.
- Pink, moist gums and an absence of bad breath;
- Nose appears moist, with no discharge;
- Clear, bright eyes with no sign of discharge;
- A shiny coat, with unblemished skin that drops back quickly when pulled away from the shoulders.
You should also see a bright and alert attitude, a hearty appetite and a normal thirst drive. Finally, there should be no coughing, lameness or excessive licking or scratching anywhere.
Potentially peaked pup
In black and white, you should be seeing your veterinarian immediately if your puppy is experiencing any of the following:
- Seizure, fainting or collapse;
- Any injury to the eye (no matter how mild you think it may be);
- High frequency of vomiting or diarrhea (i.e. it’s happening two or three times within an hour);
- Allergic reactions (i.e. swelling of the face, or hives which can be seen best on the stomach);
- Any suspected poisoning (i.e. antifreeze, rodent/snail bait, pesticides, human medication, etc). You can also contact the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center for information on pet toxins at ASPCA.org/APCC;
- Any animal bite;
- Any wound/cut that's open and actively bleeding;
- Any trauma, even if the pet seems fine as there is always a risk of internal injury that you may not be aware of;
- Straining to urinate or defecate;
- A temperature that is too high (over 40°C) or too low (under 37°C). Temperatures can be taken rectally using a digital thermometer and a little bit of Vaseline as a lubricant.
The eyes have it
Now we can look at some “grey-zone” scenarios that may be the source of some anxiety. First, a common concern is seeing greenish or yellowish discharge from one or both of your puppy’s eyes. Keep the eye(s) clean using a warm cloth to wipe away the discharge. This can be done as often as needed. Many cases of conjunctivitis can resolve on their own after a day or two of wiping away the debris and keeping the surrounding area clean and dry. If the discharge persists for a day or two, you may want to have your dog looked at by your veterinarian. What is a concern around eye health is if there is any squinting or light sensitivity, if the eye is very red, if there is swelling or if your pup is rubbing it a lot. In these cases, something more serious may be happening and you should definitely have the eye examined. Corneal scratches or ulcers can be very serious and should be addressed sooner versus later.
Puppies can often develop diarrhea since their immune systems are immature and they are actively exploring their world...often with their mouths! The more benign underlying causes include parasites, food sensitivity, infectious agents, or most commonly, dietary indiscretion (i.e. eating something they shouldn’t have). More critical causes of diarrhea include intestinal blockages (foreign body, intussusception, etc), organ dysfunction or metabolic disease. These are often accompanied by more serious symptoms such as vomiting, lethargy, inappetance and/or fever. If these other symptoms are present with diarrhea, there is no doubt that your veterinarian should see your puppy immediately.
Tummy-ache menu
Let’s go back to the scenario where your pup breaks with soft stool but is otherwise bright, alert and happy. You can certainly try to manage this at home. First, fast the dog for 8-12 hours (depending on age – younger pups fast for shorter time frames), while always allowing access to water. A bland diet (i.e. plain white rice with plain white boiled chicken) can then be introduced. The idea is to feed small meals every 4-5 hours, with a starch to protein ratio of 2:1. If the stool firms up and there is no vomiting after a day or two of this, you can gradually reintroduce the puppy’s regular food to the mix and then slowly get back to the two to three times a day feeding schedule.
Bright red blood and mucous in the stool are two general indicators of inflammation in the intestinal tract. Either can also be a signal that your puppy has parasites, so a fecal sample can be taken to your veterinarian for evaluation. One or two bowel movements with blood should not be alarming unless the volume of blood is extensive, it does not go away with conservative treatment as above, and/or your puppy is looking and acting more and more sick (not eating anymore, vomiting, lethargic, pale in the gums, etc.). These guys should be taken in to your clinic as soon as possible.
Vomiting is another symptom you may see in your puppy. An occasional episode is something to monitor at home but if they are vomiting more than 2-3 times per hour, they should be seen. A visit to your veterinarian is also in order if the vomit is associated with other symptoms such as lethargy, inappetance, diarrhea and/or fever. Watch for the condition of the chew toys…many pieces of toy or balls of stuffing have had to be surgically removed from a puppy’s stomach due to their inappropriate consumption! Any toy that is falling apart should be thrown away to avoid such a situation.
I <3 puppies
With respect to cardiopulmonary (i.e. heart and lung) health, a puppy who is sneezing excessively (especially with lots of nasal discharge), coughing, panting too much or having any episodes of respiratory distress should be seen by their vet to be evaluated as soon as possible. Puppies pant when they are active and/or warm but should recover to a normal respiratory rate in a reasonable amount of time after settling down or cooling off. Coughing in a puppy is never a normal symptom. If they are eating, drinking and otherwise fine you can monitor a cough at home for a few days but if it does not go away or if it gets worse, he/she should be seen by the veterinarian.
Limping is always a cause of concern in a puppy but not every cause of lameness is an emergency. Things that would suggest a visit sooner versus later would include obvious swelling, excessive pain, and an inability to bear any weight on the affected limb. In the absence of these signs, you can take a conservative wait-and-see approach, keeping the puppy strictly rested for a week or so and trying to prevent them from crazy puppy activities like running around, doing stairs, jumping up, etc. Strict rest means keeping them relatively confined and allowing short leash walks only to go to the bathroom. Certainly if there is no improvement or worsening of symptoms with rest, they should be seen by their veterinarian.
Cures for pet-icures gone awry
Trimming the nails of your wriggling pup can sometimes be a challenge, especially if it is something you haven’t had to do before. Even the pros can nip the quick while performing a nail trim. This is when the blood vessel in the nail gets inadvertently cut and it starts to bleed. These things can bleed a lot so don’t fret! Try to keep pressure on the nail with something absorbent like a Kleenex or cotton ball under your fingers. Cornstarch can be applied directly to the area to help it from bleeding. Be patient and keep the pressure on and the blood should eventually clot.
If there is ever any concern that your pet is in pain, it should be taken care of without delay. Signs of pain can include panting, labored breathing, elevated body temperature, lethargy, restlessness, crying out, aggression and loss of appetite. Some pets seek company when suffering, while others will withdraw. When in doubt, always err on the side of caution and never let your puppy suffer.
Of course you know your puppy the best, so if you have a feeling that something is not right, it is worth a phone call or a visit to your veterinarian. Try to be proactive with respect to your puppy’s safety. Get them leash trained and use it whenever they are outside. Be sure your fence is secure. Puppy-proof your house to prevent access to/ingestion of any possible hazards such as chemicals, pesticides, herbicides, foods, plants and drugs. Remember, puppies are naturally curious and apt to explore their environment so make it safe for them. Have the number for your veterinarian and local emergency clinic handy so that you have quick access in case something happens. Accidents and emergencies are thankfully rare but hopefully these pointers will help you decide if you can try to manage your puppy’s care at home, or if you need to bring them in to see their veterinarian.
The Vet’s Scope
By Tiffany Mason, DVM
The cold weather is finally upon us once again. With the dropped mercury come extra hazards for our canine friends. Here are some basics with respect to ensuring a safe and comfortable winter season, with some extra attention being paid to frostbite - one of the worst consequences of inappropriate cold exposure.
As obvious as it sounds, do not leave dogs outside in sub-zero weather for any longer than necessary. Small breeds, older, lean or short-coated dogs may all benefit from a cozy sweater or coat for any trip outside. Pay particular attention to how long your dog is outside when there is a wind chill, as they will get colder much faster in such conditions. Pay attention to shivering bodies – it is their natural way of telling you that they are feeling the cold and need to be taken inside.
Combating salt assault
Out on the sidewalks and roads, salt and other chemical ice-melting products can cause great damage to footpads. Feet can be cleaned with warm water after a walk, before the animal has a chance to ingest any of it (from licking their sore feet), and before it can really irritate the skin. Some people swear by spraying feet with cooking spray, or dabbing Vaseline onto toes before heading out door in order to protect them from salt scald - just be sure to wipe it all off when you get home! Better yet, foot coverings are an easy way to keep the feet free from exposure to such irritants. Balloons, with the ends snipped off according to the size of your dog’s feet, make very cheap and easy booties!
Along the lines of chemical exposure, be sure to keep antifreeze bottles and spills away from your pet. It has a sweet taste that may attract your dog (or cat) but can be deadly, even if a very small amount is ingested. Choosing a propylene glycol product rather than one with ethylene glycol is better as the former is somewhat less toxic. To play it safe, all antifreeze should be kept in a sealed bottle in a closed cupboard, well out of reach of any curious canine.
With the snow and cold, our own natural instincts often direct us to spending more time inside than out. That means for many dogs, their exercise regime is restricted in the winter. If this is the case for your pet, you may want to monitor your dog’s weight at this time of year, and consider feeding slightly smaller meals if their body condition begins to reflect their more sedentary lifestyle. On the other hand, if you and your dog enjoy spending lots of time outdoors in the winter, they may need extra calories in order to fuel their body’s efforts to stay warm.
Being exposed to extremely cold weather, particularly for a long period of time, can put your dog at risk for frostbite. ALL breeds are susceptible if the temperature is low enough, although small and shorthaired breeds are at greater risk than those dogs built for cold weather. Frostbite is actually the result of tissue damage and localized cell death.
Most cases are due to prolonged exposure to temperatures well below freezing. However, a wet or injured dog, or one without proper shelter may also develop frostbite in sub-zero conditions. Extremities (ear and tail tips), toe pads and the scrotum of intact male dogs are the areas that are most at risk for frostbite.
Recognizing frostbite
Here is the science behind frostbite. As an animal gets very cold, blood flow to the peripheral parts of the body is restricted as the blood vessels in the extremities constrict or shut closed (vasoconstriction). This mechanism helps keep warm blood within the body’s core where it is needed to maintain a normal body temperature and ensure regular body functions. With minimal blood flow to the extremities, the tissues become deprived of oxygen, nutrients and warmth allowing for the formation of ice crystals within the cells. These frozen cells eventually will die if they remain exposed to the cold.
It is often difficult to detect frostbitten tissue because it is hidden by an animal’s fur. However, here are some things to look for:
Treating frostbite is all about controlled rewarming of the animal and the affected areas. Bring them inside where it is warm and cover them with blankets. Blankets warmed in the dryer can be helpful. Warming up the whole body will help the peripheral blood vessels dilate again, bringing warm blood from the core back to the extremities. Warm, but NOT hot water, can be applied to ear or tail tips with a facecloth or feet can be soaked in warm water baths. As the water cools, replace it with more warm water. Never use hot water for this process. Once the areas feel warm to your touch, dry them off thoroughly yet gently. Do not use direct heat (such as heat pads or hairdryers) and never rub affected areas – these things can have a detrimental effect on the tissues. The old wives tale about applying ice or snow to frostbitten skin is absolutely not true so do not do it. Finally, if you are in a situation where the pet and the area cannot be kept warm, do not try to warm them up!! Tissue that is warmed then refreezes is more at risk of dying than if it is left frozen.
As frostbitten skin warms up, any damaged yet still viable areas will become red, swollen and very painful. Be sure your dog cannot traumatize the frostbitten areas as they are being warmed up, and as they heal. With time, surviving skin will begin to look scaly and grey. In severe cases where the tissues have actually died, the affected areas will turn black and eventually slough off over the course of several weeks.
Vet is pet’s best bet
If you think your dog has frostbite, have your pet examined by a veterinarian as soon as possible. They will be able to properly examine and treat any affected areas as needed. Most importantly they will be able to provide pain medication for your friend. Frostbitten skin can become very painful as the blood flow returns and self-trauma to the tissues can complicate recovery.
Antibiotics may be given in order to prevent the development of a secondary infection of affected areas. Be aware that it can sometimes take a few days to determine how much of the tissue actually died as a result of exposure to the cold. If the area is large enough, surgical amputation may be required in order to provide your dog with a safer and quicker recovery.
Frostbite is an extreme result of excessive exposure to very cold weather. Being aware of the temperature and your dog’s reaction to it can keep you and your dog out of trouble. If there is a concern that your dog may have frostbite, it is worth a trip to your veterinarian so that they can guide you through a smooth recovery. Using common sense about spending time out in the snow and cold will help you and your canine have a safe and fun-filled winter.
Dr. Tiffany Mason is a companion animal veterinarian practicing at Woodbine Animal Clinic in Toronto. She can be reached at 416-699-1175 or www.woodbineanimal.ca
As obvious as it sounds, do not leave dogs outside in sub-zero weather for any longer than necessary. Small breeds, older, lean or short-coated dogs may all benefit from a cozy sweater or coat for any trip outside. Pay particular attention to how long your dog is outside when there is a wind chill, as they will get colder much faster in such conditions. Pay attention to shivering bodies – it is their natural way of telling you that they are feeling the cold and need to be taken inside.
Combating salt assault
Out on the sidewalks and roads, salt and other chemical ice-melting products can cause great damage to footpads. Feet can be cleaned with warm water after a walk, before the animal has a chance to ingest any of it (from licking their sore feet), and before it can really irritate the skin. Some people swear by spraying feet with cooking spray, or dabbing Vaseline onto toes before heading out door in order to protect them from salt scald - just be sure to wipe it all off when you get home! Better yet, foot coverings are an easy way to keep the feet free from exposure to such irritants. Balloons, with the ends snipped off according to the size of your dog’s feet, make very cheap and easy booties!
Along the lines of chemical exposure, be sure to keep antifreeze bottles and spills away from your pet. It has a sweet taste that may attract your dog (or cat) but can be deadly, even if a very small amount is ingested. Choosing a propylene glycol product rather than one with ethylene glycol is better as the former is somewhat less toxic. To play it safe, all antifreeze should be kept in a sealed bottle in a closed cupboard, well out of reach of any curious canine.
With the snow and cold, our own natural instincts often direct us to spending more time inside than out. That means for many dogs, their exercise regime is restricted in the winter. If this is the case for your pet, you may want to monitor your dog’s weight at this time of year, and consider feeding slightly smaller meals if their body condition begins to reflect their more sedentary lifestyle. On the other hand, if you and your dog enjoy spending lots of time outdoors in the winter, they may need extra calories in order to fuel their body’s efforts to stay warm.
Being exposed to extremely cold weather, particularly for a long period of time, can put your dog at risk for frostbite. ALL breeds are susceptible if the temperature is low enough, although small and shorthaired breeds are at greater risk than those dogs built for cold weather. Frostbite is actually the result of tissue damage and localized cell death.
Most cases are due to prolonged exposure to temperatures well below freezing. However, a wet or injured dog, or one without proper shelter may also develop frostbite in sub-zero conditions. Extremities (ear and tail tips), toe pads and the scrotum of intact male dogs are the areas that are most at risk for frostbite.
Recognizing frostbite
Here is the science behind frostbite. As an animal gets very cold, blood flow to the peripheral parts of the body is restricted as the blood vessels in the extremities constrict or shut closed (vasoconstriction). This mechanism helps keep warm blood within the body’s core where it is needed to maintain a normal body temperature and ensure regular body functions. With minimal blood flow to the extremities, the tissues become deprived of oxygen, nutrients and warmth allowing for the formation of ice crystals within the cells. These frozen cells eventually will die if they remain exposed to the cold.
It is often difficult to detect frostbitten tissue because it is hidden by an animal’s fur. However, here are some things to look for:
- Ice forming on the body and/or limbs, extremities;
- Shivering;
- Skin that is very cold and hard to the touch. Skin may initially be quite red as the tissue gets cold, but then become pale (or even look blue/grayish) due to the vasoconstriction from prolonged exposure to freezing temperatures.
Treating frostbite is all about controlled rewarming of the animal and the affected areas. Bring them inside where it is warm and cover them with blankets. Blankets warmed in the dryer can be helpful. Warming up the whole body will help the peripheral blood vessels dilate again, bringing warm blood from the core back to the extremities. Warm, but NOT hot water, can be applied to ear or tail tips with a facecloth or feet can be soaked in warm water baths. As the water cools, replace it with more warm water. Never use hot water for this process. Once the areas feel warm to your touch, dry them off thoroughly yet gently. Do not use direct heat (such as heat pads or hairdryers) and never rub affected areas – these things can have a detrimental effect on the tissues. The old wives tale about applying ice or snow to frostbitten skin is absolutely not true so do not do it. Finally, if you are in a situation where the pet and the area cannot be kept warm, do not try to warm them up!! Tissue that is warmed then refreezes is more at risk of dying than if it is left frozen.
As frostbitten skin warms up, any damaged yet still viable areas will become red, swollen and very painful. Be sure your dog cannot traumatize the frostbitten areas as they are being warmed up, and as they heal. With time, surviving skin will begin to look scaly and grey. In severe cases where the tissues have actually died, the affected areas will turn black and eventually slough off over the course of several weeks.
Vet is pet’s best bet
If you think your dog has frostbite, have your pet examined by a veterinarian as soon as possible. They will be able to properly examine and treat any affected areas as needed. Most importantly they will be able to provide pain medication for your friend. Frostbitten skin can become very painful as the blood flow returns and self-trauma to the tissues can complicate recovery.
Antibiotics may be given in order to prevent the development of a secondary infection of affected areas. Be aware that it can sometimes take a few days to determine how much of the tissue actually died as a result of exposure to the cold. If the area is large enough, surgical amputation may be required in order to provide your dog with a safer and quicker recovery.
Frostbite is an extreme result of excessive exposure to very cold weather. Being aware of the temperature and your dog’s reaction to it can keep you and your dog out of trouble. If there is a concern that your dog may have frostbite, it is worth a trip to your veterinarian so that they can guide you through a smooth recovery. Using common sense about spending time out in the snow and cold will help you and your canine have a safe and fun-filled winter.
Dr. Tiffany Mason is a companion animal veterinarian practicing at Woodbine Animal Clinic in Toronto. She can be reached at 416-699-1175 or www.woodbineanimal.ca
