The Vet’s Scope
By Tiffany Mason, DVM
The cold weather is finally upon us once again. With the dropped mercury come extra hazards for our canine friends. Here are some basics with respect to ensuring a safe and comfortable winter season, with some extra attention being paid to frostbite - one of the worst consequences of inappropriate cold exposure.
As obvious as it sounds, do not leave dogs outside in sub-zero weather for any longer than necessary. Small breeds, older, lean or short-coated dogs may all benefit from a cozy sweater or coat for any trip outside. Pay particular attention to how long your dog is outside when there is a wind chill, as they will get colder much faster in such conditions. Pay attention to shivering bodies – it is their natural way of telling you that they are feeling the cold and need to be taken inside.
Combating salt assault
Out on the sidewalks and roads, salt and other chemical ice-melting products can cause great damage to footpads. Feet can be cleaned with warm water after a walk, before the animal has a chance to ingest any of it (from licking their sore feet), and before it can really irritate the skin. Some people swear by spraying feet with cooking spray, or dabbing Vaseline onto toes before heading out door in order to protect them from salt scald - just be sure to wipe it all off when you get home! Better yet, foot coverings are an easy way to keep the feet free from exposure to such irritants. Balloons, with the ends snipped off according to the size of your dog’s feet, make very cheap and easy booties!
Along the lines of chemical exposure, be sure to keep antifreeze bottles and spills away from your pet. It has a sweet taste that may attract your dog (or cat) but can be deadly, even if a very small amount is ingested. Choosing a propylene glycol product rather than one with ethylene glycol is better as the former is somewhat less toxic. To play it safe, all antifreeze should be kept in a sealed bottle in a closed cupboard, well out of reach of any curious canine.
With the snow and cold, our own natural instincts often direct us to spending more time inside than out. That means for many dogs, their exercise regime is restricted in the winter. If this is the case for your pet, you may want to monitor your dog’s weight at this time of year, and consider feeding slightly smaller meals if their body condition begins to reflect their more sedentary lifestyle. On the other hand, if you and your dog enjoy spending lots of time outdoors in the winter, they may need extra calories in order to fuel their body’s efforts to stay warm.
Being exposed to extremely cold weather, particularly for a long period of time, can put your dog at risk for frostbite. ALL breeds are susceptible if the temperature is low enough, although small and shorthaired breeds are at greater risk than those dogs built for cold weather. Frostbite is actually the result of tissue damage and localized cell death.
Most cases are due to prolonged exposure to temperatures well below freezing. However, a wet or injured dog, or one without proper shelter may also develop frostbite in sub-zero conditions. Extremities (ear and tail tips), toe pads and the scrotum of intact male dogs are the areas that are most at risk for frostbite.
Recognizing frostbite
Here is the science behind frostbite. As an animal gets very cold, blood flow to the peripheral parts of the body is restricted as the blood vessels in the extremities constrict or shut closed (vasoconstriction). This mechanism helps keep warm blood within the body’s core where it is needed to maintain a normal body temperature and ensure regular body functions. With minimal blood flow to the extremities, the tissues become deprived of oxygen, nutrients and warmth allowing for the formation of ice crystals within the cells. These frozen cells eventually will die if they remain exposed to the cold.
It is often difficult to detect frostbitten tissue because it is hidden by an animal’s fur. However, here are some things to look for:
Treating frostbite is all about controlled rewarming of the animal and the affected areas. Bring them inside where it is warm and cover them with blankets. Blankets warmed in the dryer can be helpful. Warming up the whole body will help the peripheral blood vessels dilate again, bringing warm blood from the core back to the extremities. Warm, but NOT hot water, can be applied to ear or tail tips with a facecloth or feet can be soaked in warm water baths. As the water cools, replace it with more warm water. Never use hot water for this process. Once the areas feel warm to your touch, dry them off thoroughly yet gently. Do not use direct heat (such as heat pads or hairdryers) and never rub affected areas – these things can have a detrimental effect on the tissues. The old wives tale about applying ice or snow to frostbitten skin is absolutely not true so do not do it. Finally, if you are in a situation where the pet and the area cannot be kept warm, do not try to warm them up!! Tissue that is warmed then refreezes is more at risk of dying than if it is left frozen.
As frostbitten skin warms up, any damaged yet still viable areas will become red, swollen and very painful. Be sure your dog cannot traumatize the frostbitten areas as they are being warmed up, and as they heal. With time, surviving skin will begin to look scaly and grey. In severe cases where the tissues have actually died, the affected areas will turn black and eventually slough off over the course of several weeks.
Vet is pet’s best bet
If you think your dog has frostbite, have your pet examined by a veterinarian as soon as possible. They will be able to properly examine and treat any affected areas as needed. Most importantly they will be able to provide pain medication for your friend. Frostbitten skin can become very painful as the blood flow returns and self-trauma to the tissues can complicate recovery.
Antibiotics may be given in order to prevent the development of a secondary infection of affected areas. Be aware that it can sometimes take a few days to determine how much of the tissue actually died as a result of exposure to the cold. If the area is large enough, surgical amputation may be required in order to provide your dog with a safer and quicker recovery.
Frostbite is an extreme result of excessive exposure to very cold weather. Being aware of the temperature and your dog’s reaction to it can keep you and your dog out of trouble. If there is a concern that your dog may have frostbite, it is worth a trip to your veterinarian so that they can guide you through a smooth recovery. Using common sense about spending time out in the snow and cold will help you and your canine have a safe and fun-filled winter.
Dr. Tiffany Mason is a companion animal veterinarian practicing at Woodbine Animal Clinic in Toronto. She can be reached at 416-699-1175 or www.woodbineanimal.ca
As obvious as it sounds, do not leave dogs outside in sub-zero weather for any longer than necessary. Small breeds, older, lean or short-coated dogs may all benefit from a cozy sweater or coat for any trip outside. Pay particular attention to how long your dog is outside when there is a wind chill, as they will get colder much faster in such conditions. Pay attention to shivering bodies – it is their natural way of telling you that they are feeling the cold and need to be taken inside.
Combating salt assault
Out on the sidewalks and roads, salt and other chemical ice-melting products can cause great damage to footpads. Feet can be cleaned with warm water after a walk, before the animal has a chance to ingest any of it (from licking their sore feet), and before it can really irritate the skin. Some people swear by spraying feet with cooking spray, or dabbing Vaseline onto toes before heading out door in order to protect them from salt scald - just be sure to wipe it all off when you get home! Better yet, foot coverings are an easy way to keep the feet free from exposure to such irritants. Balloons, with the ends snipped off according to the size of your dog’s feet, make very cheap and easy booties!
Along the lines of chemical exposure, be sure to keep antifreeze bottles and spills away from your pet. It has a sweet taste that may attract your dog (or cat) but can be deadly, even if a very small amount is ingested. Choosing a propylene glycol product rather than one with ethylene glycol is better as the former is somewhat less toxic. To play it safe, all antifreeze should be kept in a sealed bottle in a closed cupboard, well out of reach of any curious canine.
With the snow and cold, our own natural instincts often direct us to spending more time inside than out. That means for many dogs, their exercise regime is restricted in the winter. If this is the case for your pet, you may want to monitor your dog’s weight at this time of year, and consider feeding slightly smaller meals if their body condition begins to reflect their more sedentary lifestyle. On the other hand, if you and your dog enjoy spending lots of time outdoors in the winter, they may need extra calories in order to fuel their body’s efforts to stay warm.
Being exposed to extremely cold weather, particularly for a long period of time, can put your dog at risk for frostbite. ALL breeds are susceptible if the temperature is low enough, although small and shorthaired breeds are at greater risk than those dogs built for cold weather. Frostbite is actually the result of tissue damage and localized cell death.
Most cases are due to prolonged exposure to temperatures well below freezing. However, a wet or injured dog, or one without proper shelter may also develop frostbite in sub-zero conditions. Extremities (ear and tail tips), toe pads and the scrotum of intact male dogs are the areas that are most at risk for frostbite.
Recognizing frostbite
Here is the science behind frostbite. As an animal gets very cold, blood flow to the peripheral parts of the body is restricted as the blood vessels in the extremities constrict or shut closed (vasoconstriction). This mechanism helps keep warm blood within the body’s core where it is needed to maintain a normal body temperature and ensure regular body functions. With minimal blood flow to the extremities, the tissues become deprived of oxygen, nutrients and warmth allowing for the formation of ice crystals within the cells. These frozen cells eventually will die if they remain exposed to the cold.
It is often difficult to detect frostbitten tissue because it is hidden by an animal’s fur. However, here are some things to look for:
- Ice forming on the body and/or limbs, extremities;
- Shivering;
- Skin that is very cold and hard to the touch. Skin may initially be quite red as the tissue gets cold, but then become pale (or even look blue/grayish) due to the vasoconstriction from prolonged exposure to freezing temperatures.
Treating frostbite is all about controlled rewarming of the animal and the affected areas. Bring them inside where it is warm and cover them with blankets. Blankets warmed in the dryer can be helpful. Warming up the whole body will help the peripheral blood vessels dilate again, bringing warm blood from the core back to the extremities. Warm, but NOT hot water, can be applied to ear or tail tips with a facecloth or feet can be soaked in warm water baths. As the water cools, replace it with more warm water. Never use hot water for this process. Once the areas feel warm to your touch, dry them off thoroughly yet gently. Do not use direct heat (such as heat pads or hairdryers) and never rub affected areas – these things can have a detrimental effect on the tissues. The old wives tale about applying ice or snow to frostbitten skin is absolutely not true so do not do it. Finally, if you are in a situation where the pet and the area cannot be kept warm, do not try to warm them up!! Tissue that is warmed then refreezes is more at risk of dying than if it is left frozen.
As frostbitten skin warms up, any damaged yet still viable areas will become red, swollen and very painful. Be sure your dog cannot traumatize the frostbitten areas as they are being warmed up, and as they heal. With time, surviving skin will begin to look scaly and grey. In severe cases where the tissues have actually died, the affected areas will turn black and eventually slough off over the course of several weeks.
Vet is pet’s best bet
If you think your dog has frostbite, have your pet examined by a veterinarian as soon as possible. They will be able to properly examine and treat any affected areas as needed. Most importantly they will be able to provide pain medication for your friend. Frostbitten skin can become very painful as the blood flow returns and self-trauma to the tissues can complicate recovery.
Antibiotics may be given in order to prevent the development of a secondary infection of affected areas. Be aware that it can sometimes take a few days to determine how much of the tissue actually died as a result of exposure to the cold. If the area is large enough, surgical amputation may be required in order to provide your dog with a safer and quicker recovery.
Frostbite is an extreme result of excessive exposure to very cold weather. Being aware of the temperature and your dog’s reaction to it can keep you and your dog out of trouble. If there is a concern that your dog may have frostbite, it is worth a trip to your veterinarian so that they can guide you through a smooth recovery. Using common sense about spending time out in the snow and cold will help you and your canine have a safe and fun-filled winter.
Dr. Tiffany Mason is a companion animal veterinarian practicing at Woodbine Animal Clinic in Toronto. She can be reached at 416-699-1175 or www.woodbineanimal.ca
